Allow syrup to cool to cold state after dissolving before feeding to bees.įeeding bees in the open – generally attracts feral bees outside of the managed hive.Ī practical method of feeding the Nectar Feed to a new colony or trek swarm.Ī Pollen Substitute for feeding bees in times of pollen scarcity, winter feed and during extended cold or wet weather conditions. For Sustained Feeding: Mix 60:40 ratio of Powder with boiling water and dissolve completely. For Stimulant Feeding: Mix 50:50 ratio of Powder with boiling water to dissolve completely. This product is not intended as a permanent feed for bees as they will prefer natural nectar sources from flora when available.
Also a boost feed for bees prior to start of natural nectar flow periods. Ideal for establishing trek swarms and weak colonies following bee removals. Sole Distributor: BEEQUIPMENT SOUTH AFRICAįor further enquiries contact: products have been developed for the African Bee and widely tested on honeybees in an open apiary.Ī Nectar Substitute for feeding bees in times of nectar scarcity and as a winter feed. STORE THESE PRODUCTS IN COOL DRY CONDITIONS The HONEYBEES’ main source of food is Nectar from flora which provides the carbohydrate sustenance necessary for energy and sustainability and Pollen which provides the protein for growth and development, especially for brood and young bees.īEEQUIPMENT SOUTH AFRICA, in conjunction with a renowned and respectable Food Nutritional Manufacturer in Johannesburg, South Africa, has developed two products to be used exclusively for the beekeeping sector to act as nutritional substitutes as Nectar Feed and Protein Feed. HONEYBEES like all animals may from time to time suffer from scarcity of food. In the morning, re-fill and set out again.Nectar & Pollen Substitute Feed for Honeybees At night, bring them inside to prevent moisture buildup. Place your stations a good distance from the hive, and somewhat protected - there will be a lot of activity.īring the buckets out in the morning and set them in the same spot every day. I have never seen any conflict at my open pollen feeding stations.
The bees are attracted by the honey smell and then quickly clue in to the “pollen.” Do not open-feed sugar syrup, as the bees fight over syrup. The first day, bait the bucket with a drizzle of honey on the rim. Put “pollen” into bucket set out in yard on its side so the lid acts as a gate (so the bee’s wing action won’t blow the “pollen” out of the bucket). Strategy: cut-off two-thirds of the lid of a 5-gallon bucket snap the remainder of the lid back onto the bucket. If you like, feed commercial pollen substitute by sifting it to break up the clumps. As time goes on and the days get shorter and colder, it is normal for them to take less and less. Sift the mixture together and put about 2 cups into the bucket every day while the bees are flying. The point is to keep the bees busy and happy foraging at home, not at my neighbor’s house. I don’t do this to provide protein to my hives (it does to some extent, but isn’t significant) I feed to give my bees something productive to do in my own yard. So I open-feed “pollen substitute” in the fall after the flow shuts off. Pretty soon the neighbor’s back porch is “abuzz” with activity, and it only takes one complaint to create a Bee Ordinance. Bees pick up sand, sawdust, birdseed, or maybe even soda in some cans in a recycling bin on a neighbor’s back porch, etc., to bring home to the hive. Many years, we have a warm spell after the first frost and the bees can fly, but find nothing in the “field.” In the absence of nectar and pollen, our bees start foraging for alternative sources of carbs and protein.
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